I was sick at the time, so my recollections are all dimmed by sickness. During the whole interview process and my treks around the city itself I could breathe only with difficulty and could talk hardly at all - so bad that it took a lot of effort to get people to understand me.
Somehow I formed a presentable semblance and got everything together; but I am getting ahead of myself.
About a week ago I went to Santiago, the capital of Chile from Buenos Aires, the Capital of Argentina. I went by bus, and as I said I was sick with the flu at the time. Only now I have I found the time and inclination to try to express my little journey to myself and everyone else. It was remarkable because I was born in Chile in that same city, and had not returned since my birth, for well over 20 years.
On the day I left I got up in the morning and went to work as normal, which for mean means as an English teacher. I went to and from early morning lessons with a black duffel bag in tow. It contained my suit, a black pair of business shoes, passports (US and Chilean) and some other little things I would need in the upcoming trip.
So I dutifully lugged all the stuff to and fro. I got very tired of it very quickly due to the fact my flu restricted my breathing tremendously, and I remember sagging under the burden of the stuff and the heat of the sun (it was a hot day).
After my last lesson at 3, I met up with Richard and had an ill-advised meal at some fast food restaurant where I ate up a burger as quickly as I could. I begged him to go with me to the bus station and he assented. I wanted him to come with me because I was tired, and valued at least a little companionship before I would set out on this long and uncertain journey.
Before long we were both out of the subway and navigating our way though the squalid, teeming marketplace that squats outside the chaotic and noisome Buenos Aires central bus station. I had already bought the tickets the day before so there was no hassle with ticket counters. Rather things went smoothly until we realised that the bus had not yet shown up on the overhead TV announcing departures and arrivals. Fortunately for me I then bid Richard goodbye and entered the gate anyway, and found my bus by luck.
The atmosphere of the hulking 60s BA bus station was basically that of an airport, although denuded of wealth. Everything similar but a class rung or two lower sums it up.
We took off at five on the dot with 7 passengers in a cavernous double decker bus. The lack of other people definitely made for a more pleasant ride.
The bus was called Andesmar, and was a pretty nice little affair. The seats were large and comfortable and the ride fairly pleasant. I immediately got sick to my stomach not 45 mins after leaving (due to my unwise hamburger lunch) and made friends with an Austrian girl.
Being very sick I tried to isolate myself from her a little bit that first day. We talked for a good 30 mins at first, but soon the boring movies came on to the little television screens that the bus had to show the passengers boring movies. The hypnotic spell of it pulled most people in and chatter ceased. I went back to my seat and listened to a few HP Lovecraft short stories/novellas on tape.
They fed us a tasteless but acceptable meal, which for me was fine since my stomach had been pretty well irritated by the hamburger. I ate sparingly, but I ate.
Before long the dull and featureless pampas replaced the seemingly endless Buenos Aires urban sprawl outside the window. This in turn was darkened by the lowering sun till all was utter blackness. I stayed on awake until the very early hours, very uncomfortable with my breathing and cough. I read alot, but eventually I dropped off to sleep in the semi-cama chair. . .
DAY 2
Very bright light awoke me, and that light was none other than the reflected effulgence of a lot of snow.
Apparently we were closer to the Andes than to Buenos Aires - and it was the winter, as the seasons are opposite here below the equator. The terrain had now changed from the dull flatness of the pampas to a vista at least capable of maintaining the interest of the traveler; it not totally interesting him. The undulations and ripples of the land grew imperceptibly and new species of vegetation seemed to replace old and more familiar ones. We were entering the Argentine zone of the Andes.
We arrived just then at the bus station in Mendoza. Each of us grabbed our stuff, shuffled out in the early morning chill to the other bus, and then either went back to sleep or to watching. For me it was the latter, and I spied the earth intently as we went up and up and up subtly but now perceptively. Snow seemed to come and go but sand became a factor.
Then I began to see really great mountains, and deserts with cactuses everywhere. Once in a while a deserted structure would stand, skeleton-style, a testament to the rawness and unbroken spirit of the place. The air was very cold, but dry. Few people were about because we passed few settlements. In fact as soon as we left Buenos Aires it seemed we left the centre of Argentina, and the rest being only small sheltered hamlets strewn here and there.
The bus then really started to gain altitude and my ears popped all the time from the changes. The vista at this point recalls the American old west but probably much greater in it's size and majesty, for the Andes are something really awesome to behold. They are much larger than they appear in any picture or movie, and truly dominate all one's perception and sight. They seem to arc up endlessly and have no straight path through them, as if they present some huge and unassailable obstacle. Each one is so high that it is capped with a large white glacier and spidery rills of ice which crouch downward from it. This is all the more impressive because when one is viewing the Andes one views them often from the desert and already from a fairly high elevation.
The roads through this area are, as you can no doubt understand, tiny and perilous looking. They are well maintained, but very narrow. I never felt unsafe because of the poorness of the roads, because again I say they are well kept, but just because the bus was very large, and it seemed like the road was too narrow to hold it and other traffic at the same time.
All the same our driver was very careful, and went slow.
Eventually we passengers got to some very high areas, and got to see, as our rode wound it's way around mountains, how far up we were. This was a bit of a scare, but there was no looking back then...
Eventually we got to the Chilean-Argentine border after much strange nothingness, and were given a change to get out and walk around.
At that time we, which is me and my Austrian friend, limped our way out of the big bus and did what any good tourist does and took pictures:
(the Chilean Border station)
Our surroundings in the ICE
A mighty mountain.
A dirty and tired me.
We passed through the customs house in an uneventful way. I paid my fine for overstaying my Argentine visa 4 or 5 months. That came to 100 pesos argentinos. I went to the Chilean side and checked in. I was officially in Chile.
I immediately noticed that the Chilean officials were efficient and thorough. They inspected each bag and interviewed each passenger in an orderly manner unlike the Argentines who took a rather scattershot approach.
After we passed the boarder we had a really crazy road to go down. It was very frightening but also, in a strange way, very fun. This road is called el paso de los libertadores:
This picture is taken midway through.
A slightly better one, but my Austrian friend Lena couldn't get a photo from the top at the time.
It was an interesting crossing to say the least.
This is the end of part 1. I will post part 2 soon.
Thank you :)